Brake Bleed Bottom up (Full Bleed)

This involves,
-Visual inspection
(wiping down any dirt (blow away dirt and grime with air gun to get a clear visual)
(looking for any leaks while squeezing the lever)
(Check the connections where the Hydraulic line attaches to the lever, If NUTT brake, check around the seal on top and the tightness of the 2 screws.)
(Follow the line down the stem and through the deck to the caliper)
(Check the connection to the Banjo and also the screw that goes through the banjo into the caliper)
(Analyse if the pads have movement whilst squeezing the the levers)
(If the pads have Movement but the levers pull all the way to the handlebar then this is a good indicator that you might just need a top bleed and new pads.

-Sound Inspection
(whilst squeezing the levers, listen for the sound of bubbles popping or liquid escaping from the line.
(If lever has a sort of clicking sound as it is pulled in, then it could be bent and in this case changing the lever might be the quickest and cheapest way to fix issue)


-unwinding levers grub screws all the way before bleed
-undo caliper sideways bolts
-depin the pads
-open up pistons fully and add brake plastic block into where the pad originally was.
-take bleed screw out of caliper first. (DO NOT LOSE RUBBER ORING THAT COMES WITH THE SCREW, KEEP WITH THE SCREW IN A CONTAINER.
, use the screw as a guide to select which brake bleed thread will be needed for syringe.
(DO NOT FORCE SCREW IF IT DOESNT GO IN EASILY, THESE CANNOT BE REPLACED WITHOUT PURCHASING A NEW CALIPER).
-Push out old fluid from syringe a few times (after a previous bleed the syringe will generally stuck a bit, this helps with the process of inserting the new fluid so you are not fighting friction of the plunger
-Fill syringe with fluid and make sure there is no air preferably
-Insert syringe with correct head into caliper and rest it in a vertical position so air in tube is at the top. not near the caliper end. now we move to the lever from here.

-Undo bleed screw and DO NOT LOSE THE SCREW OR THE RUBBER ORING, PUT IN CONTAINER WITH THE OTHER ONE.
-Use the screw to select which syringe head thread you will need. (usually its a different size to the caliper but the NUTT brakes seem to use the same sized one which means you basically need to buy 2 brake bleed kits.
-Insert the adapter screw and plug in your reservoir (cup shaped funnel looking item that comes with a brake bleed kit.
-Make sure the funnel is in the unlocked position (pushed down)

Now we move back to the syring attached to the caliper.
-Squeeze the fluid from the lowest point possible because air rises to the top and can possibly get trapped in the caliper while the mineral oil fluid is pushed over it.
-completely push all the fluid from the syringe into the caliper and up the brakeline etc but if you have some airbubbles in the syringe make sure you stop before those  bubbles enter the caliper oherwise the whole process needs to be done again.

Move back up to the top where the lever is and inspect the old fluid.
if it is very dirty i recommend doing a second flush. to do this you will need to empty the funnel into a seperate plastic container labelled (OLD BRAKE FLUID).
then recap the funnel back to the lever but pull it up so it is in the locked position as if it is open then as you remove the syringe from the caliper the fluid you just put in will flow out and the whole process will need to be repeated again.

-Once funnel is in the locked position then move back down to your syring at the caliper and disconnect it.
(some fluid will inevitably leak so have some toiletpaper or a rag on the floor undernearth. as mineral oil is very slippery.)
refill syring and put it back into caliper .

Now before pushing the new fluid up the brake line, Move back up to the lever and push the funnel down into the unlocked position and then start injecting the syringe from the caliper up.

-2 flushes should be more than enough to flush out the old fluid, but if the fluid in the funnel is still dirty and not that nice red colour, the repeat again.

-after satisfied with the brake fluids cleanliness then remove the funnel and the adapter screw out of the lever and put the grub screw back in (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NOT LOST THE O-RING OFF THE SCREW)
(DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW THE THREADS ARE VERY FINE AND WILL ROUND OR STRIP THE THREAD)

-Once the lever is sealed back up now move down to the caliper and remove the syringe
-Remove the adapter screw aswell and then seal up the caliper with the original screw.

-Remove the Plastic block and give the caliper a clean of all the oil with a rag or fresh toilet paper. before putting in fresh brake pads. or the original Brake pads.

-put caliper back on and give the lever a few squeezes to get the pads into place.

-If the brakes feel a bit weak, then the grubscrew in the brake levers might need tightening up a bit as we loosened them at the start of the process.

-clean up the mess, adjsut lever positions if things such as throttle display etc had to be moved out of the way to get to the bleed screws etc.

-test ride the scooter and make sure nothing else is wrong -kev